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Jomsborg |
Grave finds of embroidery are limited, but linen and wool do not survive well in graves. The Mammen grave yielded simple stitches worked in complex patterns; the result is impressive yet easy to duplicate.
In her book Ancient Danish Textiles, Margrethe Hald writes: “Prehistoric sewing can be divided into two main categories: that which is purely practical, for example the seams of a garment, and that which is solely decorative and therefore embroidery. In some cases the sewing serves both purposes.” (Hald, p. 279)
In the photo below right the stitch sews the seam, binds the raw edges and decorates them in one step. A neckline and cuffs can quickly be finished by embroidering the rolled hem down, saving time and thread.
Stitches which are documentable in 850-1066AD in England are stem stitch, threaded running stitch, running stitch, split stitch, chain stitch, couching and surface couching (Regia Anglorum Member Handbook). Myette Fentz’s examination of the Viborg shirt gives clear pictures of the seam treatments for this 11th century Danish linen shirt (a translation is available online); an economy of sewing is clear throughout.
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Stem stitch was used for the complex embroideries on the Mammen cloak and tunic. This is the earliest known example of this stitch used in Denmark. (Hald, p. 280-282) |
Watercolor sketch showing detail of the Mammen cloak embroideries, circa 970 AD (Fitzhugh and Ward, p. 78). |
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This 10th century silk reliquary pouch, embroidered with a cross, was found at York. It is 3cm high (Hall, p. 90). |
Raised fishbone stitch on the Mammen cushion cover. This stitch sews and finishes the seam (Hald, p. 283). |
Some embroidered garb by Sunnifa:
